The journey to Estadio Ciudad de México, commonly referred to as the Azteca, vividly illustrated the contrasting realities of Mexico as the World Cup commenced on Thursday.
Surrounded by volunteers and guided toward the stadium by steel barriers, the fortunate fans who secured tickets for the tournament’s opening match between Mexico and South Africa celebrated with chants, waved the national tricolor flag, and enjoyed beers in the streets. Performers lined the pathway, while traditional banda music created a lively atmosphere.
Contrasting this festive scene, protesters clashed with police a short distance away, a common occurrence in recent weeks. However, the number of demonstrators was reduced on Thursday due to a recent agreement between Mexico’s president, Claudia Sheinbaum, and the striking teachers who had been part of the protests. Nonetheless, some remained, throwing debris at the riot police, who took cover behind their shields.
There has been ongoing discussion in Mexico about the country’s perceived diminished role in the tournament. With most matches set to take place in the United States, which will also host the final, Canada and Mexico have been allocated a minimal share of the events. As one fan outside the Azteca remarked, « un pedacito, » meaning a tiny piece.
“The other times we had it,” he continued. “It was for the people. Not so this time.”
This sentiment was not echoed during the 1986 tournament, when Diego Maradona’s brilliance captivated the world, nor in 1970, when Pelé’s success left a lasting impact. This year’s World Cup, however, has sometimes felt like an afterthought in Mexico, compounded by exorbitant ticket prices. On Thursday, for instance, a beer at the Azteca was priced at about 280 pesos, equivalent to $17, while tickets soared into the thousands.
Yet, these concerns faded for the fortunate fans in attendance as the stadium gates opened at 9 am, allowing eager supporters to flow through the turnstiles shortly thereafter. The Azteca, often regarded as North America’s football cathedral, has undergone significant renovations, presenting a more polished appearance on Thursday, with its stark concrete exterior adorned for the occasion.
“I was surprised when we left where we’ve been based,” said midfielder Érik Lira after the match, which concluded with a 2-0 victory for the hosts. “There were thousands of people waiting for us with words of encouragement along the route, when we were on the bus. It was beautiful, for me specifically because I grew up in this area. You’d see signs: ‘Mexico united,’ or ‘We love Mexico.’”
Inside the stadium, the atmosphere was even more electric. FIFA made efforts to transform the tournament opener into a grand spectacle filled with pomp and circumstance, which some traditionalists may have found off-putting. Nevertheless, the elaborate display – featuring costumes, smoke, and a massive, exploding « FIFA » sign above the pitch – resonated well with the audience. Tournament organizers succeeded in integrating elements of Mexico’s rich cultural diversity into the presentation.
Mexican fans, however, are known for their high expectations of the national team and can be quite fickle. South Africa, considered one of the weaker teams in the tournament, posed little challenge for Mexico, who dominated the match, resulting in three red cards. The pressure could have easily turned against the Mexican side had the match not gone in their favor.
Fortunately for the team, it took less than 10 minutes for Julián Quiñones to capitalize on a defensive mistake and score, sending the crowd at the Azteca into a frenzy. The noise was deafening. On the sidelines, head coach Javier Aguirre celebrated with clenched fists, quickly joined by his assistants and players. The moment likely felt nostalgic for Aguirre, who played in Mexico’s 1986 opener against Belgium, which ended in a 2-1 win.
The atmosphere in the Azteca proved to be an overwhelming challenge for South Africa. As one of the world’s most intimidating stadiums, Mexican fans are particularly relentless against rivals like the United States and, in this case, Argentina. South Africa faced a barrage of boos from the crowd during warm-ups and throughout the match.
“The scene is brutal,” Aguirre remarked to reporters post-match. “It makes your feet shake a little bit [if you’re the opponent]. You get on the bus to come here, the people are in the streets already. If you’re a player, you look around at that and you say, ‘Oof.’ You [get to the stadium] and look up and up and up and then you’re getting confused making basic passes.”
Despite leading 2-0, Aguirre’s squad faced criticism from their own supporters as they tried to maintain possession to run down the clock. While this tactic was understandable, on a day like Thursday, with 80,824 ecstatic fans celebrating both Mexican football and national pride, it wasn’t well received. Mexico maintained pressure on the South African goal until the final whistle.
“4-0, the game should’ve been,” Aguirre said with a laugh. “The people had a right to boo.”
In the end, the crowd erupted into song at the final whistle, honoring the team and each other with a rousing rendition of Cielito Lindo. It was a heartwarming scene. As fans began to pour out of the Azteca and into the streets, the tensions between protesters and police had largely subsided. However, these issues will undoubtedly resurface: Mexico’s social and economic challenges will not be resolved through football.
For those who gathered at the Azteca on Thursday, El Tri provided a much-needed moment of joy.
